The B+/B- terminals look like copper to me, with the rest being brass or something along those lines. Interestingly, it looks like the B+ and B- terminals are a different material than the cell-group contacts and the TH/ID contact.
Sproing!įrom this angle, the “double height” B+ and B- terminals are visible, as is the state-of-charge indicator. With the “Security Screws” out, the top comes off cleanly, exposing the pack guts and a really neat little spring for the pack release button. One of which is very much included in this 100 piece set. It’s a T10 size Torx security screw, if you’re interested. So, bring your “security bits trying to keep me out.” Hint: I brought it. I hear a rumor that things like center pins mean they’re a “Security Bit” intended to keep people out.įortunately, my shop has something called a “100 Piece Security Bit Set.” Any good electronics shop does. These, obviously, don’t work with regular Torx head bits. Pulling the pack apart involves removing 4 Torx screws with center pins. If the voltages are accurate, there’s something seriously wrong with this pack. You’d expect to see a nicely balanced pack like mine, not a voltage horror show like this. That’s a stone dead cell bank, if it’s accurate. I did double check this, thinking I’d made a mistake in transcribing numbers. Charging almost all the way (but not quite to 100%) means they’ll last longer on the shelf when charged - and most people store tool batteries charged.įrom this “dead” pack right off the charger? Let’s see! This is great news for longevity - sitting at 100% state of charge (which, for these cells, is 4.2V) is bad for calendar life. This is great news for testing a pack!Īlso of note is that the cells are charged to 4.1V instead of the more typical 4.2V. Conveniently, this also means that the cell group voltages are externally accessible. The per-cell voltages are almost identical (within 0.01v), which means a well balanced pack in good condition.
My pack is fully charged (20.43V, 3 LEDs, solid charger light). Everything is measured relative to B-, with the relative voltages from the previous reading in parentheses. I grabbed some voltages from a good pack of mine (I’ve got 2 good 20V Max batteries). I suspect pulling the ID pin low brings the charger circuitry online, but I don’t care to actually mess about with my charger since I use it. This pin seems to be always at low potential, and there’s a bit of a voltage floating on the charger pins when there’s no battery. If you look at the charger side, the pin that makes contact with the “ID” pin is longer by a tiny bit than the others (the top right of the center 6 pins). From left to right, top to bottom: TH, ID, C1, C2, C3, C4.Ī tiny bit of experimentation with packs demonstrates that C1-C4 are actually the individual cell bank voltages, conveniently brought out for my use! In the middle are some other terminals of interest.
#DEWALT 20V BATTERY RUN TIME FULL#
These always appear to have the full pack voltage on them. The rightmost slot is the same thing for the negative terminal. This is a full height terminal (two contacts). The leftmost slot is a double connector for the positive terminal. The electrical interface is a bit more interesting - and, really, quite a bit of fun!
Press button, receive ~bacon~ LED status lights. The “How charged is it?” interface is simple enough. The pack has two significant interfaces: The power interface, and the “How charged is it?” interface. I’m clearly not a tool pack marketing guy.Īmusingly, the warnings here don’t say anything about not disassembling the pack, so I’m good!Įxcept, I apparently did charge it while damaged. To call it a 20V pack requires a nominal voltage of 4V/cell, which is just weird (and not what they have). This, in normal terms, is a 18.5V pack (5S pack, 3.7V/cell).
They call the pack a 20V pack, claim it as 3.0Ah, and then say “60Wh.” This is the math, but it’s not a 20V pack by anyone else’s standards. It’s a 20V (Max) pack, 3.0Ah, and claims to be a 60Wh pack. On the back, I’ve got specs about my DCB200 Battery Pack (Made in Korea). Read on for an awful lot of photos inside this solidly built battery pack. Well, I’ve got a dead battery on my bench - that means that it’s time to tear it apart!Īnd you know you want to see what’s inside! I got it for $6 at a pawn shop when I asked for defective batteries. It would charge, but then only show one LED on the status bar. And I’ve got this cute little DeWalt 20V MAX battery pack (model DCB200, 3.0Ah) that’s just not behaving right. It’s been a little bit since I’ve torn apart a new battery pack! The last new-to-me pack I pulled apart was a 26v BionX battery (which, I’d add, I rebuilt to nearly twice the stock capacity by filling all the space with cells).
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